You can usually see a clear difference in thread thickness if you compare two spools of thread that are the same size. Ticket numbers are manufacturers reference for total Denier size since different fibers are only extruded in limited Deniers. Heres a little table that shows how the different sizing methods compare: If youd like to learn more about thread, check out our post on thread applications,Thread: From Outdoor to Home Dcor,or see our Thread & Needle Recommendation Chart. Seam Rippers, Needle Threaders and Basic Tools, Robison-Anton Polyester Embroidery Thread. Commercial sizes are standard for marine grade thread (youll see commercial sizes on the Sailrite website for our outdoor thread). Were going to decode thread sizes and show you what each one means and how they compare with one another. The higher the weight, the finer the thread. Here is a table that shows our nominal sizes and the weight ranges for each side including the weight of the spool itself. or Den. Cotton Count (NeC) - Weight in pounds of 840 yards. I have plenty of brand name threads that dont have markings for the thread size. the thickness of the thread can be deceiving when you look at it. Heavier threads make your stitching more visible. But they always say how many meters/yards are there. Appearances can be deceptive! Often they dont even put thread sizes on spools. Suffice to say, this is used mostly for industrial threads, good to know it exists, glad I can ignore it! Below is common industrial sewing thread sizes listed by, Tex size, Ticket number, government size and the constructions by Denier. How to make off-shoulder dress SLEEVE pattern. Im in need of a suitable needle and thread for sewing a 3300 swl webbing sling, what would you recommend? Please call us at 800-915-2320 when you need a precise color match. The ticket number system is not unique, there are many systems of numbering the threads like this. Copyright 2022 Weaverville Thread, Inc | Ecommerce Shopping Cart Software by Miva, Inc. Middleweight thread that is used for tents, furniture upholstery, auto upholstery, dog beds and collars, sails, and sand bags. Denier Count (Td or d): Denier also measures thread at a fixed length. No, this is a denomination for an embroidery thread size, it means 2 strands twisted together, each strand 75 denier for a total of 150 denier. Commercial Sizes (V): Commercial sizes are used for heavy-duty threads for sewing heavy upholstery, canvas or webbing. We will be glad to special order it and give a 10% discount. The higher the tex, the thicker the thread. Will the V-69 thread be strong enough for holding the Sunbrella fabric for the sling seats of these deck chairs? There are other package shapes (container, cocoon, large package) but all are exclusively used in industrial sewing so of little interest for us here.

Have you ever wondered what the letters in thread sizes stood for? However its in use, especially in Canada and Europe, and its not unusual to see threads marked in tex units even in the USA. Not used for industrial machines, the small diameter makes it unsuitable for high speed sewing but widely used in home sewing machines. For example, Gutermann threads are not marked with size. I couldnt find a reference to the origin of the name tex, as opposed to denier (which seems to originate in the name of an old French coin). Weight for thick, heavy threads is a lower number (8, 10, etc). I have an Elna 6003 and learned the largest needle that machine can use is a 16. You can find threads with weight 50 that are STRONGER than threads marked weight 40. Selecting the right thread saves time, money, and results in a better product. And with the naked eye, I dont see a huge difference in thread diameter from the one above! There are a number of comprehensive articles on Wikipedia (. ) More economical (price per length) than a small spool. While we are talking about sewing thread sizes I need to mention the quite obvious fact that threads are also different in length we have small spools and big cones. If 9,000 meters weighs 70 grams, its a 70-denier thread. Both these threads look the same in diameter/thickness to my naked eye. The paradox here: heavier weight has a lower number! Most orders received by 3 PM Eastern Time ship on the same business day.

Often you can see how thick or thin the thread is although the thickness of the thread can be deceiving when you look at it. Below are some examples from my collection. And a thread is always used (well, almost always) in combination with a needle, so at some point, we have to deal with the thread size together with the recommended needle size. It was in fact customary for silk stockings to have some thread in the package exactly for this purpose, so the denier measurement was used and is a valid unit for sewing threads. The higher the tex, the thicker the thread. Now that I have been reading this, I am wondering if thread this heavy will work on my sewing machine or cause me problems with my tension. Thank you for responding, Ill get it done. If Denier is nine times Tex then surely 1380 Denier divided by nine is Tex 150 as the label suggests. Industry norms allow polyester thread spool weights to vary by plus/minus 10% from the stated nominal weight. I couldnt find a reference to the origin of the name tex, as opposed to denier (which seems to originate in the name of an old French coin). Tex is the weight (in grams) of 1,000 meters of thread. is not only a policeman but also a thread wound on a solid core (plastic or paper) into a shape like a cylinder. We can help by sending a reasonable number of samples, or by having you send the fabric or leather and matching it here. For example, in the image below you can see the same size spools but the spool to the left (with brown thread) has 110 yards of thread, and the spool to the right has 274 yards, and this tells us that the green thread is much thinner. They did have the solution for the large cone of thread, but the thread size was going to be a problem for my machine, so now I am looking for someone who does upholstery and has a commercial type sewing machine. You omitted the letter system: A = V-30, B=V-46, E=V-69, F=V-92, FF=V-138. Are all the charts wrong or do I need a Math lesson. Weight of a thread is the length (in kilometers) of a length of thread that weighs 1 kilogram. In the images above I have 2 very different threads, one is all purpose thread polyester weight 40, and the other is an Eloflex thread (a stretchable thread that can be used on a regular sewing machine for sewing stretchy knits) weight 27. Using V-138, the needle should be an NM140 size 22 needle but what about the needle tip for webbing? Then, we eliminate highlights and shadows by selecting a small swatch. . Just a few: Metric ticket number (Nm), Cotton Count ( NeC, NeB, or Ne), Hong Kong Ticket (sometimes named far East), decitex, and others. Here at the Do-It-Yourself Advice Blog, youll find instructions, inspiration, helpful advice, cool tools, and the more technical side to all things DIY for your home and boat. Will the thicker thread, stuck beneath the same spring in the bobbin, automatically end up with more tension than a thin one would? The tension on your sewing machine will need adjusting when you switch thread weights. Ecommerce Shopping Cart Software by Miva, Inc. 291-A Merrimon Avenue Weaverville, NC 28787. It may mean other things than you thought. The subject of sewing thread sizes is a vast one but the one you need to understand if you want to master sewing. Restrictions apply.

Up or down? Bookbinders typically use sizes 69 to 138. document.getElementById( "ak_js_1" ).setAttribute( "value", ( new Date() ).getTime() ); Were a bunch of DIY-ers who are passionate about all things DIY. :) ]. But remember about the exceptions I mentioned above. But the question is how do we determine what thread is thinner and what thread is thicker? International Organization for Standardization (IOS) as the measurement unit for thread density and as such is probably going to increase in popularity. We have met this type of notation before, but it was 120D/2. Webbing is usually a loose enough weave that round point will go through just fine. number is the weight in grams of 1000m (1km) of thread. Polyester thread's stretchiness is a good thing because It lets seams stretch as fabric or leather stretches. Sometimes, not always, the thread weight (WT. Please call if you need a color that we do not stock in case quantities. See our conversion calculator if you would like to experiment with other measurements. For what its worth, to get a .023 diameter, you would need a #277 / 4-cord / TEX 270 nylon or polyester thread, Id recommend polyester for UV resistance and less stretch.

The following table is imported directly from the Wikipedia article I cited above. Tex 70 and higher (heavy duty, upholstery). The alternative is seam puckering or the thread snapping. Thanks. The V-69 thread is strong enough for your sling chair applications, we just normally recommend the V-92 because its thicker and tends to last longer, but depending on how much exposure to UV the thread gets, the V-69 should last you several years. It uses a fixed length to measure the weight of a thread. Yes, its still used to this day, as you can see, even if not for regular sewing thread, but mostly for embroidery thread. If 1,000 meters weighs 70 grams, its a Tex 70 thread. What to choose?

I have the Sunbrella fabric, but since I have not sewn for a while, had put the task off. Notice the only familiar notation is Tex.

Serger threads are generally thinner than the regular sewing thread because serger stitches take a lot of thread to form the stitch so if you have cones marked as serger threads you should know that they are thinner threads. . And all the threads in that image appear to the naked eye to be about the same size, nevertheless, they could not be more different! So if you have a collection of threads that dont indicate what sizes they are. This label 27 wt denotes a thread having the weight 27. Is there some sort of adapter for the larger spools of thread that will work on a regular sewing machine, or is this thread to heavy for this kind of sewing machine? Related post: Sewing thread types and uses. I am a model railroader. There are more units, I just selected a couple as examples. Smaller numbers indicate heavier threads. The Thread Exchange specializes in the kinds of thread that are not sold in stores. Just for your information, there are many other measurement units for the sewing thread sizes ( in addition to weight, tex, and den.) However, tex has been adopted by the International Organization for Standardization (IOS) as the measurement unit for thread density and as such is probably going to increase in popularity. Why is it important to know the sewing thread sizes and when we really need to pay attention to the thread size? So, what would a regular size (for example) thread mean? How much does thread material weigh (1gm per x cubic centimeters or pounds per cubic inch)? Tex (T): Tex is the most consistent of the measuring methods. Related post: How to use Eloflex an innovative stretchable sewing thread from Coats. A vicone is wound on a support with a wider base to allow it to sit better on support. Please note: Lightweight and Middleweight - Sizes 15 to 138. Weight (Wt): Weight is measured by a fixed weight system. A printable version of this article is available in my Etsy shop. The tapered top prevents accidental unwinding which is a problem with a cop. Because of the diversity of materials and construction methods, its not easy to categorize the threads.

. Getting the proper thickness affects the strength, diameter, sewing machine used, and visibility. More economical (price per length) than a small spool. The ticket number system is not unique, there are many systems of numbering the threads like this. If another weight is given for thread (like ounces), it refers to the amount of thread on the spool. Threads are not always marked with their size in Wt., Tex. Lower the number, heavier the thread. The novices among us might like a few hints on this.presumably the answer is different if youre sewing two panels of light sailcloth together vs sewing corner-patches on the sail, or stitching a leather bridle for a horse. Lets see what each means and I will then get to actually prove that the threads, which at a first glance loom the same size, are 100% different. If another weight is given for thread (like ounces), it refers to the amount of thread on the spool. Commercial sizes are standard for marine grade thread (youll see commercial sizes on the Sailrite website for our outdoor thread). Poor overlooked, C and D. The letter system is used primarily for US Government Contracted work. Density gives the thickness of the thread, and that depends both on the material and the construction method. The tension on your sewing machine will need adjusting when you switch thread weights. A cop is not only a policeman but also a thread wound on a solid core (plastic or paper) into a shape like a cylinder. For any given thread, you can adjust the upper and lower tension to both be high or both be low, and the knot will still form mid-fabric. . V-69 is the heaviest commercial size recommended for home sewing machines. Please note that the Tkt (Ticket) sizes are equivalent to Metric M thread sizes used in some countries. Or, in other words, 1,000 meters of thread that weighs 1 gm. Threads come generally in a limited number of packages, mostly depending on the amount of thread. So I decided to look at the threads I have at home and see how they are numbered. Our customers manufacture thermoplastic and rubber hoses, FIBC and multiwall bags, slings, tie-downs, tarps and wire and cable products using thread or yarn for reinforcement or sewing applications.

Some home sewing machines do not have spindles that can handle these polyester spools. You raise some good points and a video or blog post about setting and adjusting your sewing machines tension is a great idea. There is no right size for any application because four things have to be balanced: material thickness and density; seam strength requirements; stitch visibility preferences; and sewing machine capabilities. A cone will probably not fit on an internal sewing machine support but will fit on the external stand some sewing machines have. There are complicated formulas that can derive the denier, tex, or weight from this, an excellent explanation is in this article. Thread tends to get stronger as it gets heavier.

Often, the "right" thread size is a compromise that balances these competing needs. The T sizes represent the Tex measurement system, where the number equals the weight in grams of 1000 meters of thread. When we add a color, the thread is photographed under controlled lighting conditions. Try to use a needle where the eye is 40% larger than the thickness of the thread. Sergers use almost exclusively cones because of the large amount of thread used. Threads used for industrial sewing machines (industrial sewing thread) are generally categorized differently than for home sewing and below is an example from the Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines Ltd. Notice the only familiar notation is Tex. Den 75/2.

But how do you decide how much bobbin tension to start with??? No. Some home sewing machines cannot tension the heavy, V-92 thread, but most can sew with the V-69 thread. If you are sewing material that does not stretch (e.g. Really cool use of thread! Try to use a needle where the eye is 40% larger than the thickness of the thread. And a thicker thread is usually weight 30 and lower, tex 30 and higher, denier 300 and higher. For industrial sewing threads it is important to understand the following terms: Industrial thread sizes are usually expressed by Tex size or Ticket number. There were actually a few I left out, opting to only highlight the most popular ones since there are so many! None of this matters if the material sewn is not equally bleach and sunlight resistant. It shows how many kilometers of thread are needed to make 1kg. A lower weight number (i.e.

A cone is used for amounts of thread over 3000 yards and large cones can even go up to 25000 yards. Here are 19 sewing applications that typically use polyester thread and the range of thread sizes that can be used with each. Also, if you want to sew nice seams without seam puckering you should use the same size thread in the bobbin or thinner because if you use thicker thread in the bobbin you can get puckers in your seams. A spool is generally under 3 (7.5cm) long, the one here is about 2x3/4 (5cmx2cm). It is the weight (in grams) of 9,000 meters (or 9 km) of thread.

There are many different methods of measuring thread size, and different countries and industries use different units of measure. Choosing the correct thread size forthe specific applicationsis important in the yarn and thread industry, where thread size is the primary consideration formeeting the requirements of the finished product. Its an important decision. The thread size tells you the thickness of a thread. Any material you would not want cut you should use a round point. (+Yardage Conversion Chart), How to make a half-circle skirt with elastic waist | Beginner-friendly project, How to sew a lined zipper pouch by serger without a pattern, How To Make A Lined Zipper Pouch | Step-By-Step Tutorial And A Free Pattern, Sewing Vinyl: 17+ Expert Tips For Beginners. However I personally have real doubts this is what the number means and I presented it to show that even when the manufacturer does put a label, you need to be careful! Just for your information, there are many other measurement units for the sewing thread sizes ( in addition to weight, tex, and den.) The sewing thread diameter depends on thread density and material (its made of) too. They are the threads denier divided by 10. (LogOut/ I am talking here about ranges in meters and yards. For nylon only 210 Denier is available, so 3 plies equal 630 Denier. At one time, Id found a way to cross-reference thread types (say maybe 33wt) to approximate thread diameter so I could find my scale size. Both mean the same thing, said differently. However its in use, especially in Canada and Europe, and its not unusual to see threads marked in , Fine Tex Threads . The tapered top prevents accidental unwinding which is a problem with a cop. When twist is added to the ply to make it a sewing thread, it adds anywhere from 1 - 6% to the total Denier (Twist Contraction). . The finer the thread (thinner, lighter), the lower the tex number. It is determined by measuring the length of 1 gram of thread. In this way, a 3-ply product of 1300 Denier becomes 3900 Denier. It is the weight (in grams) of 9,000 meters (or 9 km) of thread. Ill email you directly with information on how to exchange your thread. Change). If you add 5% for twist contraction, the total Denier is 693. Dont ask me what happened to C and D! / 3-Ply Cones - 3280 Yds. Threads used for industrial sewing machines (industrial sewing thread) are generally categorized differently than for home sewing and below is an example from the. These are not the only units though. If you know of any other way to get average thread diameter to a thread reference number (wt, Tex, etc) Id appreciate knowing it.

Not better or worse than what we have seen, just different. Not used for industrial machines, the small diameter makes it unsuitable for high speed sewing but widely used in home sewing machines. Let me explain.

Sometimes the 1 is omitted so you may encounter simply 240D. Denier - Weight in grams of 9,000 m of thread. You might recognize the term from descriptions of nylon fabrics, which are often classified by the denier of the threads from which they are woven. This thread says No 50.

Youre right, Sue! Tex is the weight (in grams) of 1,000 meters of thread.

Note: When banners are stretched to prevent sagging, it puts stress on seams. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases, How to use Eloflex an innovative stretchable sewing thread from Coats, Different Types Of Vinyl Fabric For Sewing, How to make a unique apron with a towel attached, The Invisible Zipper Foot: What It Is And How To Use It, How to cut fabric straight | 8 Easy Ways Explained, How To Make A Drawstring Bag | Sewing Pattern And Tutorial, How Big Is A Yard Of Fabric? There are many different methods of measuring thread size, and different countries and industries use different units of measure. = 1 Tex. You can email it to me at nikkid@sailrite.com. Bookbinding requires heavy duty machines that can go through leather and paper. Have you ever wondered what the letters in thread sizes stood for? Its an important decision. I just came across this when searching for help. Test it out. For a thread marked in weight, it would be a weight 40. If so, save this pin (see below) on your sewing board so you can come to this tutorial later when you need the information on sewing thread sizes and follow me on Pinterest for more tips, tutorials, and inspiration! Thread Cone Holder - Use economical king spools on any machine. It is the norm for threads size 69 and higher. The Tex number is the weight in grams of 1000m (1km) of thread. is the length (in kilometers) of a length of thread that weighs 1 kilogram. Change), You are commenting using your Twitter account. Hi Kevin, In the image below you can see a multitude of symbols that define the thread size. Let us know if you need help finding the right size sewing thread for your application! The chart compares various bonded nylon (or polyester) thread sizes and combines all in an easy to read sewing thread size chart: The V size is the common US measurement for twisted, multi-ply bonded nylon or polyester threads. Heres a link to our V-138 thread: http://www.sailrite.com/Notions/Threads/Thread-Size/V~138/Thread-Use/Outdoor/type/Products?order=custitem_popularity. Tex 20 to Tex 69 (regular), Heavy Tex Threads . Use our Thread Information pages or just call us for help buying the right thread. Tex - Weight in grams of 1,000 m of thread. The lower the number, the thicker and stronger the thread. I would be happy to post your spreadsheet here, thank you for sharing. After all, the material makes up at least 90% of the content and cost of the item that is being sewn. This measurement is the weight in grams of 9000 meters of thread (9km). It was very important then to get the exact thread size for. Spool: holds a small amount of thread, around 250 yards or less usually. is wound on a support with a wider base to allow it to sit better on support. document.getElementById( "ak_js_1" ).setAttribute( "value", ( new Date() ).getTime() ); This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. If you are using the wrong size thread you may have a jam in the machine, the thread may break or make a caterpillar. In this case, we choose the thread by application and fiber. Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in: You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. P.S. 120. If weight is 40, it takes a length of 40km to make 1kg of thread. Finally, we visually compare the swatch to the spool and make corrections if needed. A good rule of thumb I use is cutting type points are used on leather. You might recognize the term from descriptions of nylon fabrics, which are often classified by the denier of the threads from which they are woven. But not always. I also was able to get the V-92 thread, which was recommended for the fabric, in a better color, BUT it comes on a spool that does not fit on my Elna 6003 sewing machine. And heres our selection of size #22 needles: http://www.sailrite.com/Notions/Sewing-Needles/Sewing-Machine-Needles/Needle-Size/22/type/Products?order=custitem_popularity. There are many different ways to measure thread, as Sue mentioned above there is a letter system in addition to denier, tex and commercial sizes. I am confused at the Charts indicating V138 as Tex 135, I use V138 and the reels have Tex 150 on them. I appreciate you finding the time and energy to put this article together. greater weight) doesnt always mean a thicker thread or a stronger thread. Weight does definitely NOT always mean thread thickness! . The label 50S/3 denotes a thread of weight 50 made out of 3 individual strands of material (polyester in this case) spun together. (or Tex.or Den. You can get thread and needles at Sailrite. But given that foot, inch, mile and so on have been replaced by the same organization since 1875 with the meter and we still use them 150 years later, I wouldnt put too much trust in the fact that Tex will become generally accepted any time soon. In the images above I have 2 very different threads, one is all purpose thread polyester, Sometimes, not always, the thread weight (. Used generally for lengths of thread less than 5000 yards. . This can also be expressed as metric 50. However, a #20 and V-92 will also work, it is just lighter. We never stop learning, or sharing what weve learned! There were in fact special shops and special tools for doing this (this darning mushroom image is from Wikipedia Darning article).

I appreciate your attention to detail. When you go to compare the size of two different threads, youll want to make sure youre comparing apples to apples. A thinner thread is usually weight 50-60 and higher, tex 20 and lower, denier 180 and lower. I am needing to replace some sling seats on some patio chairs. I use thread to represent guy wires made of steel. I think you have read many times this recommendation: for lightweight fabric use a thinner thread, for heavyweight fabric use a thicker thread. The label tex 30 introduces another measurement type tex. If it is taking up more room than that you either need a bigger needle for that thread size or to use a smaller thread. But given that foot, inch, mile and so on have been replaced by the same organization since 1875 with the meter and we still use them 150 years later, I wouldnt put too much trust in the fact that Tex will become generally accepted any time soon. but I only want to mention one more because I did encounter it and I had no idea where to take it from: ticket number. Threads come generally in a limited number of packages, mostly depending on the amount of thread. 40. We based our chart off of what our manufacturers say and A&E threads claim that their V-138 is T-135 as seen in this document (under Anefil Polyester): http://www.amefird.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/10/5-Thread-Size-Comparison-Chart-2-4-10.pdf Youll see that their next size of this particular thread is a T-210, so there may be an element of rounding down to get to the T-135. Commercial sizes are set sizes of 30, 46, 69, 92, 138, 207, 277, 346, 415 and 554. If weight is 40, it takes a length of 40km to make 1kg of thread. Change), You are commenting using your Facebook account. While we are talking about sewing thread sizes I need to mention the quite obvious fact that. If your machine wont handle the V-92 thread, try sizing down to the V-69. hello, i am in very big confusion ,please tell about thread size (denier) with their application in different sector. If its a silk thread its probably good for lightweight fabric (and I can say I used it numerous times for my silk projects) is it thinner than polyester thread? When only the total Denier is known, to determine a filament thread Tex size you must multiply the Denier by 0.1111 -. In other words, just make sure that the thread only takes up less than half of the space in the needles eye. Surprise free shipping on orders over $149! Subscribe to my weekly newsletters with sewing tips and tutorials, free sewing patterns, printable PDFs, and other useful content and youll find the eBook in your inbox. Brands like Sunbrella and Tenara come with replacement guarantees and UV treated nylon and polyester threads will out perform regular polyester. If 1,000 meters weighs 70 grams, its a Tex 70 thread. Well put that on our to-do list for the future! It was very important then to get the exact thread size for darning because otherwise, the repair would have been very visible. Since 2005 we have served retail and commercial customers with top quality thread at great prices. Regular polyester thread has two or more plies that are twisted together and bonded. Or why some threads are sized differently? This gives an easy approximation of the specific size of the finished thread, which is very close to the Tex size of filament threads. Usually. (3000 m), Tex 165 - Waxed Linen Blend - 0.018" (0.64 mm), Waxed Embalmers - (Taxidermy) Thread - 2 and 3 Ply, Polyester Linen Blend Tex 165: 0.45 mm / 0.018 In (18/1000"). If so, will the bobbin tension still need adjusting? Is this a secret password for a new game? The weight followed by the number of strands is in fact the Gunze count of the thread, which is an obscure Japanese measurement system from which the weight derives.