This difference in mindset is essential to keeping the stoke (versus being bummed when they get buggered up or wear out sooner). email: support@epictv.com, Company information: Banana Fingers T/A (trading as) EpicTV, Unit 8 Whitehall Trading Estate, Gerrish Avenue, Bristol BS5 9DF, United KingdomVAT GB930689110. Of course this is a speculation as I havent sent in any of these screws for sharpening yet nor had any tooth issues. Aluminium forged hanger with two clip-in points Screw the media bias of marketing budgets, we treat all brands equally. Very light weight but still bites well! $79.95, Aluminum forged hanger with two clip-in points, 13 cm, 74 g (2.6 oz): 16 cm 81 g (2.9 oz): 19 cm 89 g (3.1 oz) 22 cm 96 g (3.4 oz), Hanger: Forged Aluminum Body: Aluminum Tip: Stainless Steel. [Photo] Jim Menkol. With the new BD screws I expect that they would have similar issues with bending but I never reefed on one hard enough to find out. As a result Ive gotten out of the habit of forcing the last turn, its just not worth damaging the hanger. JavaScript seems to be disabled in your browser. Nothing in this world is free, and Black Diamond had to pay a cost to achieve the reduced weight of the Ultralights. $19.47, From: Pros Larger diameter makes threading V-threads easier. The tube issue seems to have been corrected and, as I mentioned above, dont abuse the crank and you should be fine. $189.95, As low as: Previously, Black Diamonds 22cm Express screws were green, not purple. So the question is: are you the type of person that doesnt mind your lightweight gear needing to be coddled? This means that with very little sharpening of the steel tip will expose the interior aluminum tube and may weaken the teeth. Be the first one to hear about our weekly deals on climbing gear. Theyll retail at $84.95 US. $0.00, The lightest ice screw in the world, the new BD Ultralights are crucial for fast and light objectives in the mountains.

Black Diamond's Ultralight Ice Screw was designed because weight matters for those serious fast and light missions. Functionality-wise, a nice perk is that the wire handle is spring-loaded and it pops into the open and closed positions so theres no guessing of when its in the optimal position. #StopAAPIhate. Weighing in at 45% lighter than the Express Screws, the Utlralight Screw combines a steel tip with an aluminum body and forged aluminum hanger that features two clip-in points. The Ultralight ice screws are expected to be released in October, 2018. - Powered by Possibly because the screws are green? Designed for ski mountaineering, glacial travel and high-end alpinism, the Ultralight Ice Screw says it all in the name. The Ultralights are perfect for ski mountaineering, glacial travel and high-end alpinism. Black Diamond made the tube on the new aluminum screws a bit larger than their steel screws. Tube Diameters for some Common Ice Screws: Now because BDs Ultralight Ice Screws have a larger tube diameter than their steel brethren, the tooth profile had to change a bit. Built for ski mountaineers, glacial travel, and gram-shaving alpinists, these screws feature an aluminum body with steel tip and an innovative wire-gate color-coded Express handles to differentiate length. Alison (she/her) runs WeighMyRack from her 17' travel trailer. Lastly, the hangers on the Ultralights do not pivot as far off the shaft as the Express hangers do and this limitation causes the Ultralights to bind on the ice sooner. She is currently touring the US and would love if you contacted her to meet up to talk about climbing, climbing gear, or if you have any fun and/or ridiculous adventure in mind. The flip-out wire gate creates a longer driving radius than that of the Express screws. The Ultralights are also easily identified by length with the classic BD color scheme. Wire-gate Express handle 30 N Gould St In these situations, it is common to rack up long before ice screws will be needed, if at all. Also, the wire gate seems as if it may bend if torqued on too hard. The lightest ice screw in the world, the new BD Ultralights are crucial for fast and light objectives in the mountains. You can likely bend it back, but continued abuse will see its demise. That said, it could mean thatit will try to shut on its own while cranking into sticky ice and your hand wobbles. Copyright 2022 Vertical Addiction For these pursuits, where weight savings can be critical, the Ultralights are clearly the new gold standard, and I would rate them 5 stars. There are no tests that directly compare ice screw durability, but you can expect that these Ultralight screws will get dinged up and dull faster than the full steel version. Going larger in diameter saves on weight and material costs so is the obvious choice. He grew up in Boulder, Colorado, where he fell in love with all things related to rock, ice and snow. The Ultralights are also easily identified by length with the classic BD color scheme. You must have JavaScript enabled in your browser to utilize the functionality of this website. EU fuss-free delivery! A folding handle shaves more weight when you thought the product developers couldn't keep finding ways to cut back, and the handles are color coded so you can choose the correct length and drill the screw on the fly as you fight the pump. The innovative wire-gate Express handle shaves more weight and also clicks open and closed. All threads on the Ultralights will be the same length as the Express screws. These screws are 45 percent lighter than the traditional BD Express screws and this is immediately apparent when you pick one up. 2022 Outdoor Gear Exchange, Inc., All Rights Reserved. The hangers on the Express screws are steel forged in a sharp 90-degree bend that is excellent at clearing/shearing ice during the last few rotations of insertion. Out of stock (0) Available in store: Check availability, Make a choiceSize : 13cmSize : 16cmSize : 19cm. Rematriating Our Lives: Indigeneity and What it Means to Climb, Matt Cornell free solos Hyalite Canyon testpiece, Nutcracker (M9 WI5+, 450'), Grivel G20 Plus: A light monopoint crampon that shines above the rest, Valandre Troll jacket: As warm as a down coat can be, Montana climbers tap potential of Bitterroots with "Super Ultra Mega" (5.13a, 8 pitches), Patagonia Women's Dual Aspect Jacket and Bibs: Stay dry in the mountains without sacrificing comfort or function, Researchers challenge historical records for 8000-meter peaks, Fast times on Slovak Direct: Two teams speed up one of Denali's hardest routes in a day, The Trango Cirrus: A sturdy dual sport helmet. Therefore, these screws will prove ideal for specific audiences and applications, but do not look to the Ultralights to become the new workhorse screw at your local ice crag. Door to door. The Ultralights also have a larger driving circumference, as the hanger is approximately an inch longer than that of the Express screws when the wire gate is open. When we write specific place names we will give a land acknowledgement. EPICTV, the EPICTV logo and all other EPICTV marks are trademarks of Elisa Oyj. Weigh My Rack LLC also participates in affiliate programs with Avantlink, AWIN, Bergfruende, CJ, FlexOffers, Webgains, and other sites. However, like the Petzl aluminum screws they bind in green or wet ice so its still a good idea to have a few steel screws on the harness. Muerden bien y son ligeros, el ojal es un poco pequeo, pero no incomodo, EpicTV Shop Returns: EpicTV, Unit 8 Whitehall Trading Estate, Gerrish Avenue, Bristol BS5 9DF, United Kingdom. A few rocks and sharpening cycles at home and youll want to send the screw to a pro to get a proper sharpening job done. Open Today: 10:00 am - 8:00 pm. Based on the design of a wire-gate for a carabiner the crank is not only lightweight but also snaps open and closed. Additional weight was removed with the introduction of analuminum hanger,wire handle, and plastic knob. View all posts by Monte Johnston. This may require more clearing of ice or minimize ability to place in tight spots. Even though E-Climb has aluminum body ice screws (with replaceable steel tips) they are a fair bit heavier than the Black Diamond and Petzl aluminum options due to E-Climbs steel hanger. Do NOT follow this link or you will be banned from the site! If you go with the Aluminum version the crank is purple where-as its green if you buy the all-steel version. The new aluminum Ultralight Ice Screws from Black Diamond come in the same lengths as the old steel Express screws with the exception of the stubby, 10cm screw which is only available in all-steel. The flip-out wire gate, which feels as if it might bend if torqued on too hard (especially in wet, actively forming ice or on the longer screws), also discourages hitting the screw to clear ice. Of course, I do gravitate towards all-steel screws when placing in green or wet ice as the aluminum guys tent to bind. Touch device users, explore by touch or with swipe gestures. That particular issue seems to be a function of the thermal properties of aluminum, not the screw itself though one of our testers seemed to have really good luck with the Kailas aluminum screws. Constructed from the ground up these screws feature a new aluminum hanger and aluminum tube thats attached to a hardened steel cutting surface. We dont know the exact weight that was cut by utilizing a plastic knobversus a knurled aluminum knob, but Black Diamond said it was a surprising amount.. On the BD Ultralight ice screws it seems that the aluminum tube extends all the way inside the steel cutting edge to the base of the teeth (see photo). You wont find elitist or gatekeeping writing here, we welcome all climbers. By keeping the screws capped on your harness while you travel up steep couloirs or across ice sheets, you could minimize snagging on other equipment and protect the points, yet the cap could be removed easily with a gloved hand when needed. The innovative wire-gate Express handle shaves more weight and also clicks open and closed. The steel tip provides the same sharp bite and easy starting as previous Black Diamond ice screws, while everything else is engineered to shave weight. Unlike most screws, where the cap is flush with the points, the Ultralights have an extension on the cap that allows for easy removal while wearing gloves. The author on Pitch 2 of Bobo Like, Hyalite Canyon, Montana. This change was needed as aluminum isnt as strong as steel so to achieve the required strength they needed to either make the tubes thicker or larger in diameter. Not to be left behind in the light-weight ice screw game, Black Diamond has released their own version of a composite, aluminum-steel, screw that theyre calling the Ultralight Ice Screw. Designed for ski mountaineering, glacial travel and high-end alpinism, the Ultralight Ice Screw says it all in the name. In contrast, the Ultralight hangers are comprised of rounded aluminum that does not clear ice as easily. Which, from a use-standpoint, is totally fine. Amount to free shipping $99.00Total excl. [Photo] Chris Luehder. Another thing you'll notice when you look at the Ultralights is what we quickly dubbed the "reservoir tip" on the screw cap. Lightest ice screw on the market Another option to consider is replacing your V-thread kit or anchor screws with Ultralights, which have the same strength rating (10kN) as regular Express screws. When comparing weights between the Express and Ultralight screws, the average difference is 44%, which is pretty damn close to BDs marketing claim of 45%. Weighing in at 45% lighter than our Express Screws, the Ultralight Screw combines a steel tip with an aluminum body and forged aluminum hanger that features two clip-in points. He has been ice climbing for 20 years and exploring the frozen drips of Montana from his home in Bozeman for more than 11 years. Black Diamond clearly states that these screws are designed primarily for ski mountaineering, glacial travel, and fast and light alpine pursuits. Weighing in at 45% lighter than Black Diamond's Express Screws, the Ultralight Screw combines a steel tip with an aluminum body and forged aluminum hanger that features two clip-in points. To find out more about our privacy policy, including use of cookies, please visit our, Hanger: Forged Aluminum, Body: Aluminum, Tip: Stainless Steel, 13cm (Yellow), 16cm (Blue), 19cm (Grey), 22cm, (Purple). Rounded hanger does not clear ice as well as the Express screws That said, there are folks out there (like our recently profiled Kurt Morrison), who prefer to climb with aluminum screws in most scenarios. The innovative wire-gate Express handle shaves more weight and also clicks open and closed. Black Diamond designed the Ultralights to fill a specific nichemainly ski mountaineering, glacial travel, and big alpine adventures. Black Diamond Ultralight Ice Screw Lengths: Now the culmination of all the light-weight features that BD employed with their new Ultralight Screws has resulted in an exceptionally light ice screw. Theyre also lighter than the Petzl Laser Speed Light screws by about 18% but of course a straight comparison is only possible on the 13cm screw as the sizing doesnt line-up on the rest of them (see below table). No additional delivery or customs fees will be added by the courier. By using this site we assume you are OK with that (scroll to accept). This new tooth profile is amazing! Looking to shave weight wherever they could, Black Diamond constructed this specialty ice screw out of aluminum with a steel tip so as to not compromise drilling efficiency while also dropping weight in critical areas. 13 cm, 74 g (2.6 oz): 16 cm 81 g (2.9 oz): 19 cm 89 g (3.1 oz) 22 cm 96 g (3.4 oz), Hanger: Forged Aluminum Body: Aluminum Tip: Stainless Steel, Available today 9:00 am - 6:00 pm eastern. From: Lets start with the design of the new Ultralight Ice Screws. [Photo] Jim Menkol. Ice screw technology, like all ice climbing equipment, has come a long way in the last decadeand the Black Diamond Ultralight ice screws are no exception. As with any new product, these new screws had a few issues when they were first released to the masses. This feature would also be useful in colder temperatures by minimizing the need to handle frozen metal with bare hands. The innovative wire-gate Express handle shaves more weight and also clicks open and closed. The basic design features include: The new aluminum hanger sports two large clip-in points as well as a cool and unique crank. Available in 13 cm, 16 cm, 19cm, 22 cm. Backcountry Advocate ProgramBreaking Trail, An ice screw for anything from glacial travel to ice climbing, Aluminum shaft and steel tip create the lightest ice screw available, Hanger geometry adds two holes without producing additional weight, Folding wire handle folds into the hanger when not in use, Multiple lengths allow for placement in a variety of conditions, Color coded handles let you designate lengths on the fly. Designed for ski mountaineering, glacial travel and high-end alpinism, the Ultralight Ice Screw says it all in the name. Theyre 42-45% lighter than the equivalent size Express screw which is simply amazing! Its clear a huge part of the weight savings was moving to an aluminum body (with a steel tip). Why? Cons When autocomplete results are available use up and down arrows to review and enter to select. Aluminium body with steel tip The hangar geometry has been updated to provide the strength required and still boast the double openings that come with Black Diamond's express ice screws. Instead of featuring distracting ads or creating a paywall to monetize our site, Weigh My Rack LLC links to relevent products via affiliate marketing (if you click a link and then buy, we get a commission).