Align the printed part "PP08_Cable-Holder-bottom_Outer-Part" with the marks on the boards. For those smaller shafts you should also just drill a 10mm-hole (otherwise you have to wind some tape around them, when attaching them).
Now pull the rubber a bit apart and slide "PP07_Cable-Holder-central-wall_Inner-Part" into PP06. Cleaning hose, pipe and nozzle is easy: Just fill them with hot soapwater and shake them.
PLEASE NOTE: Before you mount this part, mage sure that the M8-hex-bolts fit into them.
For that we need: Step 149: Prepare Inner Parts of the Frontal Motor Holders.
Again BOTTOM-OUTSIDE should be on the OUTSIDE of the box we are building. First cut a 75mm long piece off the tube.
You can pre-drill screw holes or if you used soft wood just rambo them in without. For making the rubber parts you will need the following tools: Moreover you will need the 3D-printed turbine-gasket-holder (PP1001) and a small piece of cardboard.
It does not matter if the electric terminals come out of the bottom or the front both will fit.
Attach the contraption we just built to the motor. I am by no means a professional at sewing, but making a drawstring-bag is luckily one of the easisest things you can make and is often recommended for absolute beginners.
That's why we make some aluminum foil shielding for the motor chamber that gets attached to it's top, bottom, walls and hatch. Afterwards sand the edges. Align the printed part "PP23_Central-Filter-Holder_Base" with the marks on the board. Slide "PP22_Central-Filter-Holder_Grid" into the central-filter-holder-base we installed in the previous step. DO NOT DRILL THROUGH THE WOOD! Add two vertical marks on the center of the board.
This project turns that trash into a resource: Tenok is a DIY vacuum cleaner that can be equipped with any used vacuum cleaner motor and hose!
Draw horizontal lines positioned as in the drawing. In general that might be true, but you just made a full-blown vacuum cleaner on your own, how cool is that?
They serve well as guides for the cut. You can of course also look for another drawstring-bag-tutorial and follow that one I just did a quick search and there might be better ones.
Refer to the picture for correct postioning. Make seven more of those rubber pieces so you have eight in total. Aluminum-foil, 2.6m of rope (up to 6mm) or old shoelaces, strong thread and generic vacuum cleaner filter fabric. There are two electric components you need to buy.
It requires some force to pull the needle through, so I used pliers to grab it.
does the trick perfectly.
Repeat the previous step 5 times, so you have six rear shock aborbers in total.
Attach "PP23_Central-Filter-Holder_Base" with 4 screws and washers.
When you do not remember what goes where just go back to the step where we assembled the electronics compartment for the first time. Step 177: Connect the Heat-Sensor-Switch 1/2. I recommend to use no tools to tighten the nuts what you can achieve with the strength of your fingers should be good enough. Two of the screw holes lie on the vertical mark. small chisel (8mm straight blade or smaller), drillpress (a proper one works better than that in the picture), drills: mm = 2; 5; 8; 11; 20; 30; 40 (If you have no 40mm-drill, you can do that one with the jigsaw), 3D-printer (preferably assembled, and not still boxed like in the picture), linseed oil (or your preferred wood-finish / wax / paint).
I'll provide more info about which length is necessary for your motor in the coming steps, (8x) M5 washers, fender style (larger outside diameter).
I will provide some additional information about suitable motors and switches in the coming steps.
Now we prepare the box for sanding and remove all the remaining screws.
All print-parts for Tenok can be printed on simple filament-printers like the Prusa i3 MK3S that has been used throughout the development of Tenok.
Align the printed part "PP1001_Turbine-Gasket-Holder" with the marks on the board. Attach "PP11_Front-Hatch-Gasket-Holder" and (4x) rubber hatch-gasket-pieces to the front hatch with 8 screws and washers. To do so, use two small boards as guides to simulate the walls that will surround the MOTOR-board in the motor-chamber later, Step 41: Trace the Screw-holes for PP1001.
Attach "PP08_Cable-Holder-bottom_Outer-Part" on the bottom inside the box with two screws and washers.
Step 183: Collect Parts for the Rear Motor Holder.
If you are unsure what I mean, compare this picture with the previous one.
Add two horizontal marks (one of them is the extension of a mark you made earlier). I made a detailled parts list with pictures as part of the instructions. The result are perpendicular crosses.
The guides on the outside of PP12 need to be aligned with the diagonal marks. BOTTOM INSIDE / TOP INSIDE / LEFT INSIDE / RIGHT INSIDE: Add a vertical line per board. Now pick up the piece we prepared in the previous step, carefully place it in the motor chamber and press it flat to the wall we just put glue on. Again form the letter "H" in front of you from the LEFT-, RIGHT- and INLET-board. You need to slide it in sideways first and when it sits in place, pull it through the circular hole.
Small built-in square holes in the parts serve as guides and need to be aligned with the horizontal and vertical marks.
Why buying an expensive cyclone vacuum cleaner when you can build yourself one?
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You should still be able to slide the motor in and out comfortably with your hands.
(4x) PP1006_Motorholder-Front_inner-part, (8x) frontal shock absorbers (rubber part), Slide the lower part of the power-button (PP20) into the upper part of the electronics compartment (PP14), Screw the upper part of the power-button (PP18) into PP20, Slide the power-switch into PP14 so that it sits under PP20, Lock the power-switch in place by sliding in the power-switch-lock (PP19), (2x) PP1002_Motorholder-Rear_Motor-Adaptor_Slider, PP1003_Motorholder-Rear_Motor-Adaptor_Base, (6x) rear-motor-holder-shock-absorber (rubber part). The two digits in the end stand for the hose diameter.
The two versions in the first picture, both fit into Tenok's 3D-printed electronics-compartment, but you need to print different files, depending on which regulator you want to use (more info in the next step). Stick the shaft of the power regulator module's potentiometer through PP14 and screw the nut back on the shaft. The result are marks that form diagonal crosses through the center of the boards.
At first sight, single and double spiral hoses look pretty much the same, but you can easily distinguish them: You might have noticed that vacuum cleaner hoses have a thread that runs all around them. And again we attach "PP15_Speed-knob" to the axle of the power regulator. Wind the rope around the cord-pin (PP04) on top of the box. DIY pump controller based on a STM32 and few more parts.
Align the 4 printed parts "PP1005_Motorholder-Front_outer-part" one by one with the corners of the board and trace the screw holes (two each). 50) helix.
LEFT INSIDE / RIGHT INSIDE: Add a horizontal line per board.
However you can already make feet for the box and glue them on (see next steps).
Remove about 50mm of the power cords's outer sheathing and from each end of the piece you cut off, so that the inner cables are revealed.
Double thread means that two threads are running in parallel around the hose and if you follow one of the threads with your finger around the hose, you will notice with each turn that it looks as if you have skipped a thread, but that "skipped" thread is in fact the second thread that runs in next to the one you are tracing. It is possible to print the PETG-parts from PLA instead, but they become less flexible / break more easily.
Do not make knots yet because we want to tighten the threads further later on.
TOP INSIDE: Put the partly assembled electronics compartment on the board, and check the other side to align the interface carefully with the holes we drilled for it. You do so by screwing the screw that goes through the inner part of the motor-holder in and out.
The screw holes in the parts' corners lie on the diagonal marks.
In the next steps we will mark the positions for those small screw-holes.
XX) hoses.
Use a pencil to connect the corners of the square pieces with a line. REAR OUTSIDE: If you happen to have a 143-mm drill that's very impressive and you can use it here. Step 40: Trace the Screw-holes for PP1005, MOTOR: Align the 4 printed parts "PP1005_Motorholder-Front_outer-part" one by one with the corners of the board and trace the screw holes (two each).
There are multiple positions in which it can be mounted. In later steps I will refer to the workpieces by the NAMES you write on them now.
Again apply glue to one of the yet uncovered walls and press the foil against it.
We do not need the circuit board, but we are interested in the cables that are attached to it.
While you tighten them, grab the cable, so that it does not turn so much together with the tighteners.
And again repeat the previous step with the last uncovered wall.
Flip the boards around so that all the OUTSIDE-marks and the INLET-mark are in the lower left corners.
Repeat this until the motor sits tight.
If you do not buy the wood pre-cut, but cut it yourself think about a smart order, so you do not need to change the length-stop too often many of the dimensions are identical. Do not flip them lengthwise or you will run into problems. Now trace the two screw holes with a pencil.
If you have to get a rubber hammer, it's definitely too tight.
BOTTOM INSIDE: Make a mark to drill a 8mm-hole. Now that the outer parts of the frontal-motor-holder are mounted, we can prepare the inner parts. Attach "PP12_Bag-coupling" to the inside of the front hatch with 4 screws and washers. Now that all functional parts in the electronics compartment are connected, we can put everything together in the next steps.
Do not drill through the wood!
Rub some extra glue on the areas where the foil ends to seal them.
Take a close look at the two parts to see how you need to orient the grid so it fits into the base. Do not touch the hatched areas around the edges yet.
The length of the pieces you want to make is 230 minus the width of the tube, so if you measured for example 40mm, then you need to cut off 190mm long strips (because 230-40 = 190).
I have been putting a system together for the past few years to do different kinds of deposition.
(If you do not have the electric components yet, you can do without the switch and use a simple potentiometer instead of the whole power regulator.).
The screw holes lie on the horizontal and vertical marks.
Make sure that all the motor-holders are screwed to about the same position, so the motor sits in the middle of the box.
When you screw the screws in, push the printed part down firmly on the rubber so that it does not move around when you drive the screw through it. Step 136: Fetch the Electrical Components Scavenged & New.
About Us Those would require a special adaptor, but they seem to be not so common and I did not find one yet. Initially I thought this part might be removed now and then to put new gaskets under them, so I wanted to provide an option to drill new screw holes ones the first holes are worn out.
On the third picture I connected them to give you an idea how the circuit looks. (16x) 35mm-wood-screws (a bit shorter or longer is ok), (98x) M4 washers for the wood screws.
BOTTOM INSIDE: Align the printed part "PP08_Cable-Holder-bottom_Outer-Part" with the marks on the boards. ALL BOARDS: Flip the boards around so that all the OUTSIDE-marks and the INLET-mark are in the lower left corners. Decide which sides of the wooden boards shall be on the outside of the vacuum cleaner. Apply some force to the bond between the LEFT and RIGHT board and the INLET board by attaching a clamp to the box. The screw holes lie on the vertical mark.
Lay the cut-open bicycle tube flat on the table. Put two nuts into one of the four "PP1006_Motorholder-Front_inner-part".
That is why we will need small screwholes in this "H" that align with the bigger 5mm-screw-holes of the TOP-board. Now file of fthe edges until you are left with nice chamfers and the feet are done! The power regulator controls the speed at wich the motor spins.
PP14: The 2000W-power-regulator (see previous step) works with PP14-s07 and the 4000W-version withPP14-s10. The piece needs to be grained in length, so it won't break under the weight of the vacuum cleaner. REAR INSIDE / FRONT INSIDE / MOTOR: Use a pencil to connect the corners of the square pieces with a line. TOP OUTSIDE: Make marks to drill a 20mm-hole and two 30mm-marks. The guides on the outside of PP06 need to be aligned with the horizontal mark.
Now that everything is pressed together nicely you can open the bows, tighten the four threads that hold the rear-motor-holder together and make knots instead.
Slide it in with this side first and it will work.
The screw holes lie on the diagonal marks.
Making the Box Preparing the Boards 2/2, For the next step, make sure that the boards are arranged in a way that all the. Building all the tools neccesary to make chips at home.
Put the last filter into "PP21_Central-Filter-Holder_Lid.
What is that thing in the upper right corner? From the coarser motor-filter-fabric we make two more circular filters: One is 125mm and the last filter is quite tiny with just 24mm. If the turbine of your motor has a very inconvenient shape (for example a protruding metal collar exactly at the height where the motor holders end) that prevents you from mounting it properly, try to slide some extra rubber-bits under the rubber-padding of the motor holders.
Step 187: Secure the M8-nuts with 4x PP1004.
Do NOT drill through the wood only drill 30mm deep into the wood.
Im a lapsed industrial designer.
An interactive particle accelerator which utilizes a inductively coupled RF ion source for beam-on-target fusion research.
You are the manufacturer, so you can use, repair and maintain Tenok your whole life!
REAR OUTSIDE / FRONT OUTSIDE: Add two vertical marks per board.
The screw holes lie on the diagonal marks.
The black power-switch in the picture fits right away whereas you would need to cut off the cap of the white one as in the last picture. The hose is another part that Tenok's design can adapt to. Put the wooden "H" together and then put the TOP-board well, on top. The filters are finished, so we can move on to the next step.
The screw holes lie on the vertical mark.
The other terminal connects to the single wire that is already attached to the heat-sensor-switch.
And we also put marks on the smallest surfaces of the pieces and connect them with the marks we made in the previous step.
If you scavenge a switch that looks different, you will need to go on searching, because only this one fits at the moment.
-mark are visible in the lower right corner like in the drawing.
In the end we will have this circuit in the vacuum cleaner: An on/off-switch, which is connected to the power regulator that controls how fast the motor is running and a heat-sensor-switch to turn everything off when it gets too warm that's it.
We need the NC-version because the switch shall let electricity through (=be closed) until it gets too warm and opens the circuit to stop the flow of electricity.
That's why there are also a lot of instructions online about making such a bag, so I decided to just link one of them here.
This step is especially important when you used coniferous wood like me as it can leak resin when it gets warm and you do not want resin to ooze into your motor, when the vacuum cleaner gets a little warmer. Screw the Hose-adaptor onto the hose like in the third picture (screws tight counter-clockwise). If not: Find some heat-resistant (at least 90C) glue for this step.
For this project that works better than listing them here.
Attach the castors by pressing their rods into the holes we drilled in the feet of the box. Attach (2x) "PP04_Cord-Pin" to the front hatch with a screw and washer each. Now calculate how long your pieces need to be and cut one off.
I've also spotted them out here in the country, sitting at the end of driveways, waiting for the garbage truck. INLET-side-surface: Add two vertical marks. Finally screw "PP16_Electronics-air-inlet_Lid" on top of the filter. 20mm: TOP OUTSIDE: Drill a 20mm-hole where you made a 20mm-mark before. INLET: Align the printed part "PP23_Central-Filter-Holder_Base" with the marks on the board. A used hose is that hygienic to use? All files you need to print can be downloaded from Thingiverse via this link: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3710521. In the next steps we will make the pieces one by one. Step 162: Attach Front Hatch Gasket and PP11. Repeat the previous step with the opposing wall. Use a compass do draw a 143mm-circle in the center of this board.
TOP OUTSIDE: Add two vertical marks on the center of the board.
Refer to the list that is attached to this step to see, which settings are necessary for which part. A DIY Vacuum Tweezer/Pickup Tool to help with manually picking up and placing tiny components. Now put the small filter we made earlier on top of the grid. Preserve that feeling a little longer because we still need to make some parts before the final assembly and we start by making rubber shock absorbers and gaskets from bicycle tube. I know that this topic often feels alien and intimidating in tutorials, but don't worry, I made it quite easy to follow. For this project you will need the tools in the picture that are listed below. Tip 2: When you remove the bottom of the hole punch you can see more easily where you are punching. The parts are designed for easy printing and only two of them require you to print a small amount of support material.
When you deem the part properly aligned, trace the 4 screw-holes.
Test fit the motor and when it is to loose screw the afforementioned screw a bit out and test fit the motor again.
Our website uses cookies to enhance the site operation and understand traffic and website performance. Align the printed parts "PP11_Front-Hatch-Gasket-Holder" and "PP1009_Rear-Hatch-Gasket-Holder" with the marks on the boards. Solder the remaining two cable shoes to the two cables in the 50cm-piece we cut from the power-cord.
Screw the two cable tighteners loosely into the lower part of the electronics compartment (PP13).
Heat-sensor-switches can be bought with different temperature-ratings and for Tenok we need one that activates at 80C (or in more precisely between 72 and 88 C because of tolerance). Take your sewing needle and stitch the corners of the stack with strong thread. Cut off two pieces of rope, each 120cm long. Under this link you find all parts you need to print for this project, This line-drawing is a helpful reference to find the correct part when building the vacuum cleaner, To find such a module online, try keywords like. The threaded part of the tightener needs to point towards the cable holder that is mounted on the bottom of the chamber.